Uluru (Ayers Rock)

It’s hot at Uluru in January. That’s why sensible Aussies visit in the cooler months. We were there mostly with tourists from the Northern Hemisphere wishing to escape the depths of their winter for a warmer climate. They can tick the achievement box on that one.

Driving towards Uluru

We knew it was going to be hot but everyone said, ‘don’t worry, it’s a dry heat’. Well…I’ve never known humidity like it. Because just as we arrived the semi-arid desert experienced a torrential downpour resulting in very muggy conditions. While I would have much preferred dry heat, I consider it very fortunate to have experienced rainfall in a part of the world that typically receives just 30cm (12 inches) of rain per year.

A rare sighting of fresh rainwater on Uluru

Uluru (formerly known as Ayers Rock) has the reputation of being the world’s largest monolith. But actually it’s not; that title belongs to the lesser known Mount Augustus in Western Australia. Even so, the sheer size of Uluru is staggering. It is 3.6km long, 1.9km wide, has a circumference of just under 10kms, extends several kilometres below ground level, and at 348mtrs in height, is taller than the Eiffel Tower.

Magnificent scenery at every turn

Uluru is in the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. In 1985 the Australian Government gave the Anangu Aboriginals (who had been living in the area for centuries), the 1326km area of land that included Ayers Rock and the Olgas. At that time the official name of the Rock was changed from Ayers Rock to Uluru and the Olgas became Kata Tjuta. The Australian Federal Government currently has a 99-year lease over the land and the area is looked after jointly by the Anangu people and Parks Australia.

Vegetation at the bottom of the rock

Tourism to Uluru began in the 1930s when adventurous types were encouraged to come to the red centre and climb the rock. In 1966 the government wanted to install a chain-link fence to assist with the climb and advertised for contractors to submit proposals. The man awarded the contract is Peter Severin who owns and runs Curtain Springs Station which is about 100kms from Uluru. Everyone wonders why the chain-link fence that’s supposed to help you climb, is so low to the ground. The story I’ve heard is that when asked via snail-mail how high he was going to build the fence, Severin replied, ‘I’ll build it hip-height’. Those who read his letter thought that sounded sensible. Except that Severin stood less than five feet tall making the ‘hip-high fence’ level with everyone’s knees.

Curtain Springs Station where there is a petrol station, camping ground and restaurant

Curtain Springs – an hour’s drive from Uluru

Amenities block at the campground

Should we talk about the climb? It’s so controversial. As previously stated, climbing Uluru was instigated by tourism bodies as a way of drawing people to the outback. And it was an incredibly successful marketing campaign with this semi-arid desert now receiving over 250,000 tourists per year. But the Anangu people do not want people climbing the rock. I don’t know of all the reasons but did hear that they believe Uluru is something to be respected rather than conquered, and that they feel responsible every time someone dies climbing the rock. Since records began, 37 have died either from falling, heat exhaustion or heart attacks.

The climb was closed for one reason or another every day we were there

Climbing the rock will officially be banned in October of this year, 34 years after the title deeds were handed over to the Anangu people. While for the next few months you can climb the rock, it is frowned upon and greatly discouraged. We were there five days and every day the climb was closed for one reason or another, giving the impression the climb is not really ever open.

The part of the rock that has been climbed for decades

That doesn’t stop everyone though. I heard a story that a few days before we arrived, three South Korean backpackers started the climb in the early morning, even though the climb was closed. They made it up to a certain point then two of the three decided to head back. The third climber wanted to keep going so continued on his own. He made it to the top but then decided not to follow the fence line back to the bottom but instead choose his own path. While trying to descend he slipped and fell a considerable distance landing on a ledge with multiple broken bones. Meanwhile, his friends had made it back to their accommodation and were waiting for him to appear. By late afternoon and still no sign of their friend, they contacted emergency services. A helicopter was dispatched and the backpacker was found on the ledge but because of unfavourable conditions, were unable to rescue him. Instead, they winched a paramedic down to him who had to render medical assistance and stay with him on that ledge until morning. At first light the helicopter returned and they were both winched from the ledge. The backpacker was given a fine of around $3,000 but his rescue cost the Australian taxpayer over $60,000.

We were lucky to see so much greenery around the rock

You need a pass to enter the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. These are available on-line or as you approach the park’s entrance. I recommend a three-day pass which will cost a family of four around $65.00. The pass gives you entry to the World Heritage site, and the fee assists with the running costs of the visitor facilities with a percentage going to the Anangu people to help support their community.

Beautiful

As you approach Uluru you will see the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre. Here you can learn about the history and culture of the Anangu people, the history of tourism to the area, and watch free presentations by the Anangu and park rangers. There is an information desk, shops where you can purchase souvenirs, an art gallery, a cafe and bathroom facilities – the only bathroom facilities at Uluru.

So green

There are so many ways to see Uluru. You can drive around it in a matter of minutes which is a good starting point. You can book a guided tour but from my observation, those tourists were rushed and weren’t given the time to view all sides and angles of the rock. You can go on a Segway Tour but we didn’t have that option because a lot of the track was under water due to the rain. You can cycle around the rock but again, only if the track isn’t under water which is 99% of the time. Or you can see it on the back of a Harley Davidson. And of course, if you have deep pockets, you can see Uluru by helicopter.

One of the many sides of Uluru

What we did was walk. It’s free, good exercise, and you are in charge of your own tour. What you need to remember to pack is bottled water, especially in summer. As previously stated, it’s hot with temperatures close to 40C (104F) most days. As well, you need insect repellant. There are so many flies. So, so many. Sticky flies that won’t leave you alone. I can’t believe we forgot to pack insect repellant – you learn to walk with your mouth closed!

Walking around the rock

I recommend ensuring enough time to walk the whole way around the rock. This will take about four hours and you need to be mindful that there are no bathroom facilities or kiosks as you complete the walk; just desert.

Our happy explorer

Walking around 14kms (8.9 miles) allows you to view the rock from all sides and not just from the typical angle you see on tourism brochures. You’re in full control of your tour and can go at your own pace, enabling you to stop and appreciate the changes in the different angles. As well, when you’re on foot you’re moving at a pace where you can appreciate the impressive scenery, colours, and silence.